A scenic, hair-raisingly steep 12km winding road west from Hora Sfakion takes you to Anopoli, a quiet village in a fertile plateau at the base of the Lefka Ori, with a memorial to resistance fighters in the main square. It was one of the few areas that did not fall to the Venetians or Turks. In earlier centuries, Anopoli was the Sfakiot capital, presiding over the regional port of Loutro (still accessible, albeit on an extremely steep path, by hikers).

Hearty lunches are served at Platanos, a restaurant on the main roundabout in Anopoli, known for its roast lamb and other local delicacies. The friendly English-speaking owner, Eva Kopasis, can also advise about hikes to Loutro and local beaches and has rooms (doubles €33).

Don’t miss the delicious baked goods at Cretan Divine Family Bakery, where friendly Angeliki serves up cookies, kalitsounia (Cretan cheese pies), and hot Greek coffee at wonderful outdoor tables with views around the plateau.