The charming village of Gavalohori, 25km southeast of Chania, makes an interesting stop. The main attraction is the Folklore Museum, which is located in a renovated building that was constructed during Venetian rule and then extended by the Turks. The exhibits are well labelled in English and include examples of pottery, weaving, woodcarving, stone-cutting and other Cretan crafts, including the fine kapaneli (intricately worked silk lace). A historical section documents Cretan struggles for independence.

The Women’s Cooperative, on the main square, sells a few rare pieces of kapaneli made by local women. You can normally see women hard at work on this painstakingly long process. Prices for quality lacework range from €15 to €1500, depending on the size.

Signs direct you to the Byzantine wells, Venetian arches and Roman tombs about 1.5km above the village.