The more bullet holes you see in the passing road signs, the closer you are to Hora Sfakion, long renowned in Cretan history for its rebellious streak against foreign occupiers. But don’t worry, the pint-sized fishing village is an amiable, if eccentric, place that caters well to today’s foreign visitors – many of whom are Samaria Gorge hikers stumbling off the Agia Roumeli boat on their way back to Hania. Most pause just long enough to catch the next bus out, but some are tempted into staying by the area’s isolated beaches and hiking trails.