Some of western Crete’s most scenic and unvisited mountain villages, the Innahorion (derived from Enneia Horia, or nine villages), are spread across the far western coastal region, along with the route connecting Moni Hrysoskalitissas and Elafonisi beach in the south with Falasarna and Kissamos (Kastelli) in the north. This quiet area renowned for its chestnuts and olives is one of the lushest and most fertile parts of the island. The coastal road from Kefali to Sfinari is one of Crete’s most beautiful: it winds around cliffs with magnificent coastal views unfolding after every bend.

For the area’s best eating, as well as blissfully serene traditional lodgings, plan to visit the area’s remote ecotourism settlement in Milia.